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Our
flight to Singapore was uneventful. We arrived at 4 PM and were met
by a driver we'd arranged from NY. He welcomed us and gave us the
brief intro tour- including the helpful advice- if you are lost never
ask a Singaporean woman for directions. They will always mislead you.
He couldn't really give us any further explanation of this- he insisted
it was a fact.
We
checked in to our hotel- the Allison. It was a nice shiny high-rise
kind of place with Japanese karaoke bars on some floors.The first
evening we set out to walk around a bit and wandered through the Bugis
market area which had all kinds of gadgets and junk stalls. We also
stopped to buy some fruit. I tried the famous Durian fruit- Jason
couldn't get past the smell. Its reputation had proceeded it. On board
the ship, Dick- our fellow passenger, told us a story about how Dragon
airlines- his old employer, refused to carry Durians because once
a whole cargo compartment full gave off such a stink and steamy mist
in flight that it set off all the cargo bay smoke detectors. I can't
really figure out how anybody decided these were to be eaten. The
exterior has very sharp spikes all over. The Durian salesmen wear
thick gloves and then hack them open with machetes. The odor arising
from them is somewhere between sweaty socks and garbage in NY in August.
The fruit inside is sweet and gooey and tastes a little roasted. It
got all over my hands and I smelled like Durian for much of the evening.
For
the evening we walked around much of the colonial part of town. IT
was a stark contrast from Surabaya. It felt like they were on two
paths. You could see how at one time each city had the same things-
colonial buildings, broad avenues, lush tropical foliage, but
somehow in Surabaya it all went wrong. In Singapore everything is
manicured and pristine, almost antiseptic. Surabaya was throbbing
with life, but also with burned out buildings and urban decay. Singapore
manages to blend many cultures- Chinese, Malay, Indian and I think
now American. American stores flowed seamlessly into the landscape.
7-11 didn't look at all out of place, neither did the Border's
Books, or any of the myriad American superstores about town. Because
the natives speak 4 different languages, English is the main business
language. We ate at the Lau Pat Festival Village- a Victorian
metal market structure which is filled with "Hawker stalls"which
are all over Singapore- literally on every block, these food
courts offer cheap and good food in many different cuisines. The first
night Jason had fried dumplings and I had a soup where you picked
your own ingredients from a buffet style case- I had fish balls and
tofu and some things I still don't know what they were. I also had
a "Popirah" which was like a crab burrito -stuffed with
fresh herbs. It was delicious.
On
our way back to the hotel we stopped to hear a small band playing
along Boat Quay- that strip in everytown where people solicit you
to sit at their outdoor tables. The band played blues and some Jethro
Tull. The lead singer made lots of extraneous mouth movements which
I found amusing and the bassist had ZZ top style beard which Jason
liked. Ultimately though it was too loud and we continued out walk
back to the hotel.
We
frolicked away the rest of the afternoon and then went to dinner at
a restaurant called Blue Ginger- specializing in native nonya food.
It was very good- kind of coconut milk and spices, and fried chicken
with ginger marinade type food.
1
August 2001 Singapore
We
started off the day by exploring the Little India region of town.
We walked through curry scented alleys draped with silken saris and
spice sellers. There were several Hindu temples to tour. Neither of
us had ever been in A Hindu temple before and found the experience
rather fascinating. When you enter you ring a bell to let the gods
know you're present. Devotees buy bananas and flowers to give as offerings
to the gods. Attendants dressed in robes deliver the offerings to
the gods- who take out the sustenance and then they return the actual
food to the devotee who can eat it and have a little of the god's
power.
The
first temple we visited was bustling. It was dedicated to Kali. There
were giant statues painted blue with many arms and lots of colorful
depiction on the parapets and along the outer wall. We visited 3 more
temples in the area. One more Hindu and 2 Buddhist.
The
Buddhist temples had a very different feel. In one there was a 50
ft high Buddha- called Buddha of the 200 lights because of the many
light bulbs all around him. A group of Chinese women attended this
temple and played Mahjong. There were very few worshippers here. There
was also a fortune telling machine in that temple- which made it feel
like part amusement park/part temple, what with all the light bulbs,
the lively game going on and the wheel of fortune. The fortune was
based on the lunar year- mine is Pig (1971) and Jay's is rat (1972)
. You set the dial on your year and then spin. Where it lands is your
fortune. I hit 12- the time when the Buddha was king- this is very
fortunate. Everythings coming up roses, that was the basic gist of
it. Jay didn't want to take a spin.
The
other Buddhist temple across the street was much more serious than
the first one. It involved wood panels and Buddha statues-a little
incense- more traditional.
Speaking
of traditional, somehow Jason agreed to try a traditional Indian vegetarian
banana leaf lunch. You eat with your fingers- Right hand only- left
hand is used for unclean purposes. Its awfully hard to eat messy goopy
food with only one hand. Its even harder if you're making faces like-
yuck, this is vegetables-I don't like this. But to his credit Jason
tried everything. I thought it was pretty good.
After
lunch we did a little shopping- and honed our bargaining skills a
bit. Shopping is one of the main past times in Singapore. We went
to Chinatown and went to the mall there and did a little shopping
in Little India as well. It was strange to be bargaining in stores
and not just market places, but the vendors make it pretty easy, "Oh,
this is for your father, Well then 10% discount for filial loyalty"
In
the evening we went on the "Night
Safari." This is a great idea. I don't know why no other
zoo has ever thought to do it, but Singapore claims to be the worlds
only night time tour of nocturnal animals. Getting out there on the
subway was a bit complicated but after about 1 and half hours we made
it to the zoo and boarded the tram. The zoo is very eerie in the dark.
They have a moat system there so there are no fences and you are quite
close to the animals. There were a ton of people around, but because
of the dark there was a general hush and all the animals were very
active. The lions were engaged in their nighttime bathing rituals-
which included a lot of roaring. They had an exhibit of fruit bats
which was very effective. You walk through and these giant bats are
hanging right over your head. They have very big wingspans. One man
in front of us kind of freaked out and ran through- leaving his 2
scared children with their mother who then had to coax them on under
one particularly low hanging bat. In addition we sawing fishing cats
fishing and otters ottering. It was the most active I've ever seen
the animals at a zoo.
2
August, 2001 Singapore
We
took care of errands in the morning and went out to the Singapore
Disneyland in the afternoon- its called Sentosa
- and not really run by Disney. There is a water park and some action
cinemas, etc. The park was pretty deserted on a Thursday afternoon.
At
first the best thing about it seemed to be the bathrooms- which were
fenced in areas, still outside- like little lush tropical paradises
with indoor plumbing.
The
orchid garden was sad and wilted looking. Volcano land celebrated
the heritage of the Mayans- I couldn't figure out how that related
to Singapore! We waited for about 20 minutes to get into the Volcano
land "show" which consisted of a walk through a pseudo haunted
environment- complete with goofy shaking elevator followed by a 3
-d movie and bad animatronic display of the history of the formation
of the earth which culminated in a cheesy volcanic explosion of confetti
and bad stage sets cracking and tumbling- but you could see the hydraulic
lifts.
After
that we decided to skip the other exhibits and hit the water slides.
It was the first time we really cooled off completely in days. The
slides themselves were pretty fun and a few were very steep. There
was one in particular which was dominated by a group of Danish kids,
which you could get air on and they treated it like a skateboard ramp-
competing to jump the highest.
As
we prepared to leave Singapore, we both liked it but weren't over
the moon. It seemed very clean and generally friendly- but maybe too
touristy We're not big enough shoppers to appreciate the big shopping
scene. I also felt always on the verge of getting ripped off there,
which I didn't expect- things like- from Sentosa we went to catch
a cab and he tried to charge us Sing $29 for a ride to town, but we
knew it should only be about Sing $5- so we passed it by. At one of
the markets where we ate they mysteriously added up food prices from
a hidden price list known only to them. Our total for 2 was less than
US$20, but something felt wrong about the whole process-Especially
because most of our other meals were under $10. So we weren't that
sad to be leaving Singapore behind and on to the glories of Angkor
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